Do you actually know how to fold your dress shirts?

A relatively senseless question but... do you actually know how to fold your dress shirts?

In case you need help, here's 3 methods you may consider. These 3 methods would be useful specially if you're packing up for a trip.

A point to note that no one method is a sure way to completely prevent dress shirts from wrinkling.

Your dress shirts are bound to have some form of wrinkling; however, several factors will determine the amount of wrinkling: they are the fabric type and weave of the shirt, the duration and how tightly your garments are packed.

It is hence advised that you should always schedule time to touch up your dress shirts before wearing, especially for an important occasion.

How & When to Roll Up Your Shirt Sleeves

How & When to Roll Up Your Shirt Sleeves

Method One:  The Basic Sleeve Fold

This is perhaps the most intuitive fold that the most of us would do when we roll our shirt sleeves for the first time.
This is the hardest fold to be undone and not aesthetically the best looking.  However its simplicity and ruggedness make it a staple for the working man.

1.     Unbutton the cuff and any gauntlet buttons further up the sleeve.

2.     Using the cuff as the measuring point, simply roll the sleeve over itself until it passes the elbow, depending on your cuff size and arm length.

3.     Adjust the fold until you are satisfied, ensuring each fold is clean and straight to get the best final look.

Method Two:  The Master Sleeve Roll

You can achieve a more casual look with the end of the cuff still showing, turned inside out and shoved up your sleeve.
This gives a decidedly more creased look that many consider stylish – especially if your dress shirt has a contrasting cuff colour.

1.     Unbutton the cuff and any gauntlet buttons further up the sleeve.

2.     Fold the cuff inside-out and keep tugging, without folding, until you expose just a little less arm than you want to with your finished look. The turned-back sleeve should just be inside out and unfolded at this point.

3.     Fold the bottom of the inside-out sleeve about halfway up so that it makes a band beneath the inside-out cuff.

4.     Adjust the fold until you are satisfied, leaving the unbuttoned and inside-out ends of the cuff sticking out of the rolled fabric.

Method Three:  The AIFA Roll

This is a casual roll, sporting a stylish look and you can easily roll the sleeves down with no wrinkles.  It is limited though by the size of your dress shirt cuff – too big a cuff and this roll is impractical.

1.     Unbutton the cuff and any gauntlet buttons further up the sleeve.

2.     Using the cuff as the measuring point, simply roll the sleeve over itself 1-2 times, stopping below the elbow.

3.     Adjust until you are satisfied.

Method Four:  The Devil Dog Fold

This provides a crisp and professional look.  It is recommended for office settings.
The finished effect is a band of cuffed cloth that’s even in width all around, with no corners or buttonholes showing.

1.     Unbutton the cuff and any gauntlet buttons higher up the sleeve.

2.     Fold the cuff in half upwards, so that the very outer edge is folded back to meet the bottom edge of the cuff.

3.     Fold again, keeping the same width (half the width of the cuff) and tucking the end of the cuff underneath the new fold.

4.     Keep going until you reach the desired point on your arm.  The roll of folded fabric should be even in width and should hide the cuff itself entirely.

Rolling up your Sleeves when you have Thin Arms

Rolling up your dress shirt sleeves will draw attention to your biceps & triceps. For those with thinner builds or thick non-defined arms, you would need to think about proportion and strive for balance.

Wear dress shirts that fit you and compliment your physique. For example, petite men should choose dress shirts with smaller cuffs and thinner sleeves.

Keep your sleeve rolled below your elbow as this will look better. And it helps to draw focus to your forearms that are normally closer to an average size than biceps.

When rolling the shirt, roll the sleeve over on itself length-wise to reduce the sleeve width and create a tighter fit on the biceps.  A loosely rolled sleeve will only exaggerate already thin arms.

How Far up to Roll your Sleeves

Above the elbow is more practical if you are actually working with your hands.
Aesthetically though, it violates the “rule of thirds” and never looks quite as stylish as leaving the rolled sleeve a bit below the elbow.
In addition, if you have a loose cuff or a lot of sleeve fabric, it can start to look odd as more and more fabric gets bunched up around your elbow, ruining the line of your biceps.
Stick to thin, tightly-fitted dress shirts if you are rolling your sleeves high.

On the other hand, below the elbow is a less practical, but more stylish option.
It is good in situations where you are deliberately trying to look relaxed. Do keep in mind that your rolled sleeves should be tight on your forearms and hence you might need to roll the turned-back fabric over on itself a few more times.

We are not all made equal. Here's some help.

Let's be frank, we are not all made equal.
Some of us might be better in matching our outfit while the others would need a little helping hand.

We really like this article we chanced upon at Business Insider with a detailed chart on suit and dress shoes matching!
It certainly made picking out the right suit for an event and matching it with the right shoes easier. Read the full article here.

Are you buttoning your suit the right way? Here's how to do it right.

How to Button your Suit

The two main reasons as to why men should adhere to the above mentioned rules are:

1) Sending out a signal that you pay attention to the details
Knowing the rules and wearing it right portray you to be someone “in the know” and setting you apart from the huge number of men out there who violate the rules as they do not wear a suit regularly.

2) Wearing it right makes a suit look better on a man in most situations
A buttoned suit when standing, cuts a cleaner silhouette.
When seated, unbuttoning allows you to sit more comfortably and prevent wrinkles and button stress/popping.
In addition, many 3 button suits are not made to be buttoned on the top (called 2 1/2 suits) and the lower button is almost always in a position where it restricts movement.

Single-breasted Jackets
Most modern suits have a single-breasted jacket.
Two factors dictate how they should be buttoned: the number of buttons the jacket has and where the buttons are in relation to your waist.
A jacket with a high stance has buttons at and above the natural waist, while a jacket with a low stance (more common these days) has its buttons at and below the waist.

One-button Jackets
Single-breasted one-button jackets are becoming more common - it is the classic choice for Black Tie events. They should always be buttoned when standing. However, you may unbutton when seated.

Two-button Jackets
The conventional way to button a two-button jacket is to button the top button and leave the lower undone.
However, men who like a very long lapel sometimes button the lower button and fold the lapel all the way down past the top buttonhole.
In addition, an unusually high-stance jacket might look more proportionate when buttoned at the lower button.
Very tall men may need to use the lower button to keep the jacket from spreading out above their waist and exposing the trouser-front and belt buckle.

Three-button Jackets

The conventional method is to always button the middle button and to button the top button if desired, while always leaving the bottom button undone.
You should avoid fastening all three buttons at once as it will make you look stiff.

Double-breasted Jackets
Double-breasted jackets are almost always worn buttoned and it is very unusual to unbutton one. They are described with the total number of buttons on the suit front followed by the number of working buttons — so a “six-on-four” jacket has six buttons but only four buttonholes.
Generally, you would want to button all the buttons that have working buttonholes. If you plan to leave some buttons undone, it is most traditional to fasten the top button.
However, men who prefer a longer line have been leaving the lowest button undone instead.

Your Favourite Slim Fit Dress Shirt

Slim fit is the go-to contemporary fit for dress shirts in this modern day.
You will look fashionably smart and sophisticated in a slim fit dress shirt. Below are several areas to look out for in a slim fit dress shirt.

Midsection
Check that the midsection is not too loose around your waist.
There should be about 4 – 6” inches of extra fabric in the region. Hence, when you pinch it off on the side, there should be 2 – 3” of folded fabric.
Having anything more will make you look sloppy while anything less could mean you are cutting it too close.
Make sure you consider how the midsection will fit when you are sitting down as a very slim fit may lead to pulling on the bottom button when seated.

Chest
Check that the chest width is not too loose.
Likewise, there should be about 4 – 6” of extra fabric in the region.
If it is too tight, there will be constant pulling on the button at your breastbone region, resulting in unwanted lines across your dress shirt.
If it is too loose, you will have excess fabric bunching up in all the wrong places.

Sleeve Width
A slim fit dress shirt body should be accompanied by fitting sleeves.
Sleeves should be cut close to your arms without restricting movement.
Men with longer arms should take note that a very slim fit in the arm can lead to tightness when bending their arms.

Shoulder Width
More or less, the shoulder width should not change based on type of fit. However, it is worth noting that a good slim fit dress shirt should also have a slightly narrower shoulder width.
For most men, the point where the shoulder curves down to the arm is not a precise point, but a gradual curve, hence there is always some range of acceptable shoulder widths for an individual. On a slim fit dress shirt, you will want to be on the narrower end of this range such that the shoulder seam of the shirt rides slightly higher up on the shoulder.
More relaxed fits might have the yoke come off the shoulder just ever so slightly.

Wearing a Slim Fit Shirt Tucked VS Tucked-out
A thing to consider when selecting your dress shirt fit is if you plan to wear your dress shirt tucked or tucked-out most of the time.

If you intend to wear your dress shirt tucked-in exclusively, then it will be alright to have it tighter around the midsection and having it cut to follow the shape of your torso closely and into the pants.

However, if your dress shirt is meant to be tucked-out most of the time, a slim fit dress shirt might appear to hug the hips or buttock awkwardly in an unflattering manner.
Thus, it is usually suggested that it should be less fitted around the waist and hips for dress shirts that are meant to be worn tucked-out.

Bespoke, Made-to-measure, Off-the-rack; what's the difference?

You probably have heard the terms "bespoke", "made-to-measure" and "off-the-rack" but what exactly are the differences?
Bespoke and made-to-measure are rather similar but with their on uniqueness whereas off-the-rack is something we are all very familiar of.

Read through the following to have a better understanding of each of them:

Bespoke Dress Shirts
Bespoke dress shirts are completely custom designed for you based on a pattern drawn to fit your exact body size and preferences.
Once your pattern is on file, you can order new dress shirts any time you want by simply flipping through fabric books. You have total control and virtually anything you can sketch or describe can be made.

Made-to-measure Dress Shirts
Made-to-measure dress shirts are modified based on a set of existing patterns. They can be adjusted according to your own measurements and preferences.
If you have a fairly standard body type with ordinary proportions, there is no enormous difference between made-to-measure dress shirts and bespoke dress shirts. It may or may not be worth the additional money for you to pay for a bespoke.
Your pattern adjustments can be kept on file so you can reorder when you find a new fabric you love without the need to get re-fitted.

Off-the-rack Dress Shirts
Off-the-rack dress shirts are produced based on pre-established sizes and limited shirting fabrics, often by neck size/sleeve size/chest size for men.
For example, a “15½ 32/33” would be a 15½″ neck size with a 32″ or 33″ sleeve length.  

The Components of A Dress Shirt

You probably wear your dress shirts for work and even for play but do you know the components of a dress shirt and how to identify them?

Let us share with you the terms used for the various components so it'd be easier for you to refer to them and look like an expert as well!

The front of a dress shirt

The front of a dress shirt

The back of a dress shirt

The back of a dress shirt

Components of a collar

Components of a collar

Collar Base/Stand:
The band of fabric sewn into the neckline of a dress shirt, which the collar attaches to.

Collar Leaf:
The outside fabric of the collar, located at the front sides, which is folded over the collar base.

Collar Point Length:
The distance between the collar point and the top of the collar leaf

Collar Front Band:
The area on the base that sits between the collar point.

Collar Point Spread:
The distance between the collar point.

There you have it! Now you know a little more than before!

Do you know what's a dress shirt yoke?

Have you heard of a dress shirt yoke?

Here's what it is.
The yoke of a dress shirt is the area under the collar that drapes over the shoulders and holds the shirt’s backing over the body. It creates the crisp lines of the shirt’s backside.
There are 2 different types, namely the one piece yoke and the spilt yoke.

One Piece Yoke
A one piece yoke is made from a single piece of fabric.
You can choose from a selection of single colour shirts with either no patterns or with strong patterns (such as thick stripes in daring colours).
It is also a more classic, formal option for fine dress shirts.

Split Yoke
A split yoke is split down the middle and sewn together in the middle for additional strength and a better fit.
Splitting the shirt yoke is both functional and aesthetic.

On a good quality fabric, the warp and weft result in a fabric that is rather non-stretchable. Thus, pulling it in the horizontal or vertical direction will not make it stretch very much.
As a result, this can cause the wearer to feel a little uncomfortable when bending over.

However, a diagonal pull will make the fabric stretch. This is where a split yoke adds advantage to the shirt.
By rotating the fabric so that the pieces meet each other in an angle, the stretchability of the material is increased, enabling the yoke to accommodate movements made by the wearer. 

Spilt Yoke (L) & One Piece Yoke (R)

Spilt Yoke (L) & One Piece Yoke (R)

Why Made-to-Measure?

Our tailor working on a suit

Our tailor working on a suit

Why choose a made-to-measure service over ready-to-wear garments?

Well, the most prominent of which is that the fit of a made-to-measure garment is expected to be superior as they are tailored to fit each customer uniquely.
Hence, what you get is created solely for you.

Furthermore, made-to-measure service gives you the freedom to decide on your fabric selection and detailing.
The ability to create individualised garments is what sets made-to-measure garments apart from its ready-to-wear counterparts.

If you've been through a personalised consultation with us, you probably would've experienced how we would select the fabrics, decide on the design of your order and go through the various additional detailing together!

We believe in providing the best service as our made-to-measure service does not only offer products but goes beyond that!